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An Andalusian village where stones tell its turbulent history

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Wearing a black leather jacket, his silver-grey hair knotted in a bun, José Manuel Acuña is strolling along the two-kilometre wall that completely encircles the gleaming-white Andalusian town of his birth, Vejer de la Frontera. Seemingly, the 56-year-old has a story to tell for each and every stone: The large rectangular ones date back to the Romans, who held sway here until roughly the 4th century. Then came the Visigoths, who preferred the smaller, die-shaped stones which likewise can be found in the town wall. With the strong easterly wind – the “Levante” – blowing against us, we go seeking…

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